Friday, August 8, 2008

Edinburgh - Military Tattoo!


We were lucky enough to arrive in Edinburgh during the Fringe Festival and the Tattoo, so we booked a tour with Haggis Adventures that included a trip around the highlands AND a ticket to the (sold-out) tattoo! So we decided to go for it.

We travelled around the central highlands during the day and then came back in the evening for the tattoo which was at Edinburgh castle. Our tour guide Ped was pretty neat and told us all about the history of Edinburgh, Scotland and all sorts of interesting extras. Funnily enough, the Scottish Gaelic name for Edinburgh is Dunedin. Apparently Dunedin was abbreviated to 'Edin' and then they added 'burgh' as the Scottish equivalent of the English borough. Our NZ Dunedin was actually planned/modelled on Edinburgh! Edinburgh is also interesting because its a really ancient settlement (from like the 12th century). So there is the 'old town' of reeeally old buildings, and then the 'new town' which is just a few hundred years old (mostly Georgian architecture). The most interesting tale about Edinburgh is how it got its nickname 'Auld Reeky'. Basically, because it stank. Back in the day, folks used to throw the contents of their chamber pots straight out their windows and onto the street (yelling beforehand to warn people below). Hence the sewage used to run down the streets and stink out the place. This is also apparently why the Princes Gardens underneath the castle are so lush and green - they've had centuries of build up of the finest Scottish fertiliser!

The Edinburgh castle above the Princes Gardens


First stop of the day was to meet Hamish the Hairy Coo. He's a 15 year old Highland Bull and he's fairly friendly. 'Course I thought it was completely hillarious to see Hamish meet Hamish.

Apparently the most handsome Scotsman ever is named Hamish

Hamish meets his better half

Ped then took us through Doune (where the first pistols were made, that fired the first shots of the US civil war), and then on to Bannockburn (where Robert the Bruce led the scots to victory against the English - remember the very last scene of Braveheart??). We headed from there up to Callander (aka gateway to the Highlands) and were then officially in the Scottish Highlands. The heather is in flower this time of year, so it was really neat to see the countryside and hills coloured all purple. Also there are lots of foxgloves around, which are also pinky/purple.


We stopped in a little town called Killin for lunch, and ate steak pies at the falls of Dochart. Great pies, amazing views. The water in Scotland is a dark brown colour, almost like tea. This is because of the high peat/soil content in the water. There aren't many trees about the place, so there is lots of soil erosion going on (ok so bad example in the photo below because there are plenty of trees, but just wait till you see later photos where the land is completely tree-free!).

Hamish and the peaty water of Dochart Falls

In the afternoon we stopped in at the Glen Turret whisky distillery, which is a single malt whisky as opposed to the blended kind. Needless to say there was some taste testing, and we learnt all about whisky's legs. Never knew whisky had legs. Apparently the reason why the whisky in Scotland is so good is because of the water used in the process - peaty water. Whisky is pretty much just made from barley, yeast and water, so the water used in the process is actually really important. That and the wood used for the barrels which its aged in. Famous Grouse gets its slight hint of vanilla and chocolate flavour from the wood of the barrels, a citrus flavour from the way in which the Barley is crushed, and a smoky flavour from the peat in the water used. So there you go!

Mish and the Famous Grouse at Glen Turret

We also went to Loch Tay, which is the 2nd biggest loch in Scotland. Its really beautiful. Glassy still and reflecting the hills above it. Then we headed back to Edinburgh for dinner before the tattoo at 9pm. We were both really excited about it!


Sitting in the stands in front of the castle before the tattoo started

Well, it was everything we expected and more. There were bands from all over the place, and even the Wellington marching girls to represent NZ at the event. I have to say, our NZ girls did us proud and were absolutely amazing. My favourite group was the Norwegian Royal Guard, but the Scottish Marines were fabulous too. Did any of you see it on TV? It was so awesome to be there in person. The castle was all lit up with different lights and even projected pictures throughout the show. Awesome!!

Our NZ marching girls

The music was really moving and I confess even brought a wee tear to my eyes! Very impressive bands.

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